If, like many, your image of Mauritius is one of a large beach and a blue lagoon, make sure you see the south coast before you leave.
It is said that Mauritius is a representation of the world gathered on one island; a fact that is evoked when talking about its multi-ethnic population, originating from Asia, Europe and Africa. The same observation can be made about the landscape. We thus find on the east coast the perfect illustration of the tropical island with coral sands, while the mangrove creeks in the north-east and south-east are reminiscent of African or Asian coastal landscapes, while the west coast, outside the village of Black River – now covered with concrete – evokes the African savannah.
As for the basaltic cliffs of the south coast, they evoke those of Cornwall, or even Brittany, the country of origin of the first long-term or permanent settlers. This is undoubtedly one of the reasons why, while walking along these cliffs, one cannot help gazing the infinite blue, in an unconscious search for unlikely far-away lands and distant times. There we breathe the past, or rather the air is one of a borrowed time, which will hopefully become.
Nevertheless, the landscape as a whole is varied and each section, from the south-east to the south-west, deserves a special mention.
The ancient character of the south coast is felt right from its first beach, near the western shore of the Blue Bay Marine Park. The name ‘La Cambuse’ sets the tone; a marine term for the food and wine stores on board the old ships.
A beach with a wild character, where the sea is untamed at times, while offering a great swim in clear water. A short walk takes you to another cove before arriving at the beach of “Le Bouchon”; another picturesque place much appreciated by the locals, yet not very popular outside weekends.
This short hike would be incomplete without discovering the surprising landscape of the western side of the embankment.
The access to this part is not obvious, at low tide it is possible to walk across the inlet from a precise point to another. At high tide it would be almost like swimming; hence the recommendation to go light for this walk, or else with a waterproof bag. Another – longer – passage along the wall of the property there is possible. This lesser-known passage nevertheless allows the discovery of an unusual landscape of mangrove swamps, grassy paths and small channels of clear sea water, inviting for a swim. Then one can take the path that runs along the sea and the rocky shores that gradually rise into cliffs and from which magnificent views onto the open sea open up.
After 5 km the “Pont Naturel” and 2 km further on, the site of “Le Souffleur”. How rewarding is the last half-kilometre when the Savinia beach and its natural pool reveal themselves.
The cliffs that extend for another ten kilometres make a beautiful hiking itinerary. Ideally, one should get dropped off at one of the five public access points and to be picked up at another. One can then choose the section with the desired distance.
Mountain bikers also love this route. Classic mountain bike tours can be organised by Yemaya or on electric bikes with DunienZîl.
At the western end of the cliffs is the beautiful Gris-Gris beach, which has inspired many a poet. Set below, it evokes a sleeper in love with timeless dreams. Around it, the village of Souillac, named after Governor François de Souillac, the last descendant of the “Sires de Souillac” – a village in the Lot region of France. A governor of the former Ile de France, of sad memory, as he was at the origin of the racial segregation between whites and blacks. This local law was maintained by his successor.
Nevertheless, we owe him some fine undertakings, notably the relay-port at the mouth of the Savanne River, chosen for being the rare creek along that coast, and free of a coral reef. The first infrastructures were set up at the place called “Le Batelage”, which can be visited, as a restaurant has fitted out the old silo. This micro-port has been very useful until the first third of the 20th century for the transport of sugar produced in the southern region to the export port of Port Louis. The southern coast, too far away, was very poorly served by the bumpy roads of the time and was served by the railway network only very late. It is this past isolation gives it its authentic and timeless appearance today. Another embarkation boat facility is located in Bel Ombre, further west.
Also worth seeing in Souillac, especially for French speakers, is the place called “La Nef” or the Robert Edward Hart Museum. It is a shack built of coral, which was the residence of the above-mentioned poet. It is here that the feeling of suspended time is most keenly felt, where the expanse of sea that opens up at its feet towards the infinite south revives the ancestral memory of the Mauritians, all of whom came from afar, willingly or by force.
To get there, one takes the small coastal road passing by the Telfair garden sloping gently towards the sea, the ancient railway terminal now fitted with an unexpected piece of tin roof and the now defunct Souillac district court… Of a most beautiful colonial architecture, it was one of the jewels of our English heritage, which is very rich in buildings of the same type. But the modern authorities, in their obsession to make a whole part of our history vanish from memories, have left it to rot to justify its demolition. Unfortunately, it is just one of the many “victims” of neo-colonialism in the 21st century.
After the village of Souillac, heading west, the landscape becomes more expected. From the beautifully situated Riambel cemetery at the western mouth of the Savanne River, where the Riambelle villa is located, the beautiful beaches of Riambel and Pomponette stretch for more than four kilometres, followed by the no less beautiful St. Félix beach for more than a kilometre. It is the longest succession of beaches on the island. The particularity of the Riambel lagoon is its shallowness, so much so that during low tides, many fishermen walk around the lagoon looking for octopus and shellfish, sometimes giving the impression of treading on water.
Although the sea, even at low tide, continues to be omnipresent along this coastal road, after St. Félix the highlight sits on the landward side. This is where the Bel Ombre estate begins, with its hilly landscape and the walking opportunities offered by the conglomerate that owns the estate. Leaving to the fans of mechanics the quad, buggy or 4X4 tours in the reserve of Frederica, the true nature-lovers will be delighted taking part in the hikes / picnics at the foot of the “500-foot Cascade” or better, at the heart of the UNESCO Biosphere.
Bel Ombre is also a coastal village and the road reveals many glimpses of typical Mauritian character. Finishing this road in beauty, the cove of Macondé as a preamble to the appearance of the majestic Le Morne mountain and its peninsula which marks the south-western extremity of Mauritius.
With a bit of curiosity, the region / south coast counts more good food outlets worthy of a stopover than at first sight and the choice is rather eclectic.
In the range of typical restaurants, if the “Bus-Snack” in Bel Ombre has made a name for itself, it is more for its originality than its cuisine. But selfies don’t feed the man.
Marylin’s – official name: “La Roche Cari” – in Bel Ombre, maintains its authenticity as well as its charm and its dishes remain tasty. Let’s hope she doesn’t follow her idol too closely; fame can be damaging if it’s not managed.
La Glace Italiana in Souillac – The small roadside terrace is not representative of the quality of the pizzas served – they are quite good.
In the middle range, two good addresses:
Station A in Bel Ombre – Nice terrace overlooking the road and beyond, very professional set up, very decent food.
Le St. Aubin – further away from the coast, is worth the 4km distance from Souillac. Wonderful colonial house in a beautiful garden, the service is as welcoming as it is attentive and the cuisine, which remains simple, offers a few original dishes such as the pizza with tea chutney and above all the delicious cassava “Kat-Kat” with smoked marlin, the speciality of the house. Very reasonably priced. In the same place, the St. Aubin rum factory can be visited with tasting of rums and rum liqueurs.
A class above, the Heritage Golf Club restaurant in Bel Ombre. A posh environment with a beautiful veranda overlooking the golf course. The cuisine is more continental, hotel style. Advance booking recommended.
Still in Bel Ombre but in a very different setting, the C-Beach club is, as its name tells, a beach club, open to the public, where an entrance fee is charged. The entrance fee entitles you to free drinks and access to the boat house where it is possible to rent non-motorised boats and kitesurfing equipment. – Kite school on site. – A swimming pool and tables spread over a large area allow for convivial meals in a summery atmosphere. Advance booking recommended.
Last but not least, the south coast has its gastronomic restaurant. In the sublime setting of the “Chateau de Bel Ombre“, for lunch or dinner, let go in this stunning setting, the refinement and the tastefulness.
Villa Riambelle opening onto the long beach of Riambel. Accommodation for 10 people in 5 bedrooms and 5 bathrooms.
Kaz’Alala – Neighbouring Château de Bel Ombre, close to the golf course – A well thought out combination of guest house, self catering accommodation and Bed & Breakfast with on-site restaurant.
Chateau de Bel Ombre – A large luxury suite for two, on the first floor of the chateau.
